Wednesday 30 May 2007

rolex series 1: how to tell if it's a "folex"

a folex = fake rolex.... and in the coming days and weeks, i will try to document my knowledge to help newbies distinguish the features of a rolex and a folex.....:)

one of the most popular rolex watches is the submariner, the iconic dive watch that almost everyone else attempts or have attempted to copy........ therefore we will limit ourselves to this classic model that have defined what a dive watch is all about....

there are 3 versions of the stainless steel submariner, namely:

  • rolex submariner 14060M aka non-date submariner (list price S$6447)
  • rolex submariner 16610 aka submariner date (list price S$7444)
  • rolex submariner 16610LV aka green submariner (list price S$7976) .....pls see previous posting for pictures and more...

so here we go........important features to look out for:

  • 1
  • there are 120 clicks per complete 360-degree revolution of a real rolex sub bezel........... however this feature alone shd not be used to judge whether the watch is authentic or not...... some folex could be pretty well-made and the bezels do have 120 clicks........ the clicks should be firm and smooth..... it should also turn with more ease when u press it down and turn
  • 2
  • for the 16610 and LV.... the cyclops magnify the date 2.5 times..... this is a common fault of folex watches and most have yet to perfect the magnification..... the date should sit right in the middle of the window and i mean exactly in the middle, not abit left or right or up or down.....
  • 3
  • as the text on a rolex watch dial is laser-etched, you can easily judge the quality by looking closely at the edges of the text, especially the coronet at 12 o'clock....... it shd be very well defined, even with a 10x loupe....
  • 4
  • the luminova should be flat and has a uniform glow.... it shd appear more whitish than green..... check the lume by exposing the dial to a light source and then observe in the shade.... all the luminova on the hour markers and hands must glow...
  • 5
  • the hour marker surround for the ss submariner is made of white gold...... check the shape, it should be complete and perfectly circular.....
  • 6
  • the 14060M is equipped with a rolex 3130 movement while the 16610 and LV uses the 3135 movement...... they are fundamentally similar, the only difference is the date complication in the 3135........ to see the movement, you need to use a proper tool to unscrew the ss case back
  • 7
  • modern rolex movements beat at 28,800 beats per hour and the sweep of the second hand is very smooth....... there are folex watches that uses el cheapo slow beat movements, so u can probably see that the sweep is not as smooth and exhibits some jerk.....
  • 8
  • however, it's not uncommon for folex watches to use swiss eta or china-made eta clones that also beat at 28,800 bph......... be very careful....
  • 9
  • all rolex submariner watches has a triplock crown.......it is physically larger than the crowns for the oyster datejust watches (which has a twinlock crown)........... how to tell whether it's a triplock??.......... well, look at the crown and you will see 3 dots below the coronet.........
  • 10
  • for a triplock crown, u will also see a black rubber o-ring on the crown tube when you unscrew the crown..... the o-ring is functional and you will be able to feel the crown compressing this ring when you screw the crown in.......... this is one feature that provides additional water resistance to 300m or 1000ft....
  • 11
  • to wind the movement, u have to turn the crown clockwise after you unscrew the crown...... do u find a slight resistance as compared to the feel when you turn the crown CCW..??
  • 12
  • to adjust the hands forward, you have to turn the crown clockwise in the last position..... this is also a feature to ascertain the watch as some fake movements advance the time by turning the crown CCW.....
  • 13
  • gently shake the watch..... can you hear or feel any wobble??...... the rotor of a rolex submariner watch pivots on a jewelled bearing and is totally silent.... you shd not hear anything..... or feel anything.....
  • 14
  • there is no engraving or text on the case back of a rolex submariner....
  • 15
  • the 14060M comes with a non-SEL bracelet while the other 2 models come with SEL....
  • 16
  • rolex submariner watches do not come with clear caseback.... genuine rolex watches come with a green hologram sticker ...... the model number is printed on the hologram and it will wear off when the watch is worn...
  • 17
  • there is a minute coronet that is laser-etched onto the sapphire crystal of a genuine rolex watch at the 6 o'clock position....... it's quite faint and difficult to pick up with the naked eye...... however, u can still see it clearly if the angle and lighting are right....
  • 18
  • all the 3 ss rolex submariner watches come with the oyster bracelet and the middle links are hollow...... if u see solid middle links on a ss submariner, it's a fake......
  • 19
  • both the 16610 and LV comes with a quick dive suit extension link....... from the inside of the clasp, u can see a small 'O' on one of links....... press it firmly and the link will pop out...... the 14060M has a different type of extension link.....
  • 20
  • for late-model 16610 and LV, the watches come with a one piece SEL. watches using this SEL will not have any bracelet number engraved on SEL links.....
  • 21
  • for late-model 16610 and LV, there are no holes on the side of the watch case. if you remove the bracelet, u will be able to see 16610T on the case at the 6 o'clock position........ t stands for "no-hole case"....... the 14060M still has holes on the case....
  • 22
  • the pearl on the bezel will glow .....
  • 23
  • the watch serial number is laser-etched on the case at 12 o'clock position.......it is very clear, obvious and well-defined....

haha overall very lengthy but still not 100% exhaustive.....but i hope this is helpful

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